Everything about Alderney totally explained
Alderney (
French:
Aurigny;
Auregnais:
Aoeur'gny) is the most northerly of the
Channel Islands and a British
Crown dependency. It is part of the
Bailiwick of
Guernsey. It is 3 miles (5 km) long and 1.5 miles (2.5 km) wide. The area is three square miles (8 sq.km), making it the third largest island of the Channel Islands, and the second largest in the Bailiwick. It is around ten miles (16 km) to the west of
La Hague in the
Cotentin Peninsula,
Normandy, in
France, twenty miles (32 km) to the north-east of
Guernsey and sixty miles (97 km) from the south coast of
England. It is the closest of the Channel Islands to France as well as being the closest to England. It is separated from Cap de la Hague by the dangerous Race of Alderney (Le Raz).
The island has a population of 2400 people, and they're traditionally nicknamed
vaques after the cows, or else
lapins after the many
rabbits seen in the island. The only
parish of Alderney is the parish of
St Anne which covers the whole island.
The main town ('La Ville' or simply 'Town' in English) is often erroneously referred to as 'St Annes' (or less inaccurately: 'St Anne'). It features an imposing, pretty church and unevenly
cobbled high street. There is a primary school, a secondary school, and a sub-post office as well as hotels, restaurants, banks and shops. Alderney is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful of the Channel Islands.
History
Alderney shares a history with the other Channel Islands, becoming an island in the Neolithic period as the waters of the Channel rose.
The etymology of the Island's name is obscure. It is known in
Latin as
Riduna but as with the names of the all the Channel Islands in the Roman period there's a degree of confusion.
Riduna may be the original name of
Tatihou, while Alderney is conjectured to be identified with
Sarmia.
Alderney/
Aurigny is variously supposed to be a Germanic or Celtic name. It may be a corruption of
Adreni or
Alrene, which is probably derived from an Old Norse word meaning "island near the coast". Alternatively it may derive from three Norse elements:
alda (swelling wave, roller),
renna (strong current, race) and
oy or
ey (island).
After choosing independence from France and loyalty to the English monarch in his role as the
Duke of Normandy, in
1204, Alderney developed slowly and wasn't much involved with the rest of the world. That is, however, until the British government decided to undertake massive fortifications in the
19th century and to create a strategic harbour to deter attacks from France. These fortifications were presciently described by
William Ewart Gladstone as "a monument of human folly, useless to us ... but perhaps not absolutely useless to a possible enemy, with whom we may at some period have to deal and who may possibly be able to extract some profit in the way of shelter and accommodation from the ruins." An influx of English and
Irish labourers, plus the sizeable British garrison stationed in the island, led to rapid Anglicization. The harbour was never completed - the remaining breakwater (designed by
James Walker) is one of the island's landmarks, and is longer than any breakwater in the UK.
The last of the hereditary Governors,
John Le Mesurier, resigned his patent to the Crown in 1825, since when authority has been exercised by the States of Alderney (as amended by the constitutional settlement of 1948).
The island was
occupied by German forces during
World War II. Before German troops landed in June
1940, almost the entire Alderney population evacuated, leaving only 6 of the population. The Germans built four
concentration camps on the island, dependent on
Neuengamme. Each camp was named after one of the
Frisian Islands and included
Norderney located at Saye,
Borkum at Platte Saline,
Sylt near the old telegraph tower at La Foulère, and
Heligoland. Each camp was operated by the Nazi
Organisation Todt and used
forced labour to build
bunkers, gun emplacements, air-raid shelters, and concrete fortifications. In 1942, the
Norderney camp, containing Russian and Polish
POWs, and
Sylt camp, holding Jews, were placed under the control of the
SS Haupsturmführer Max List. Over 700 of the inmates are said to have lost their lives before the camps were closed and the remaining inmates transferred to Germany in 1944. The German officer left in charge of the facilities, Kommandant Oberst Schwalm, burned the camps to the ground and destroyed all records connected with their use before the Germans surrendered the islands on
May 16,
1945. The German garrison on Alderney surrendered a week after the other Channel Islands and was one of the last garrisons to surrender in Europe. The population was unable to start returning until December 1945. There remains several concrete fortifications on the island from the German occupation.
For two years after the end of World War II, Alderney was operated as a communal farm. Craftsmen were paid by their employers, whilst others were paid by the local government out of the profit from the sales of farm produce. Remaining profits were put aside to repay the British Government for repairing and rebuilding the island. Resentment from the local population towards being unable to control their own land acted as a catalyst for the United Kingdom Home Office to set up an enquiry that led to the "Government of Alderney Law 1948", which came into force on
1 January 1949. The law organised the construction and election of the
States of Alderney, the justice system and, for the first time in Alderney, the imposition of taxes. Due to the small population of Alderney, it was believed that the island couldn't be self-sufficient in running the airport and the harbour, as well as in providing services that would match those of the United Kingdom. The taxes were therefore collected into the general Bailiwick of Guernsey revenue funds (at the same rate as Guernsey) and administered by the
States of Guernsey. Guernsey became responsible for providing many governmental functions and services.
The 20th century saw a lot of change in Alderney, from the building of the
airport in the late 1930s to the death of the last speakers of the island's language (
Auregnais, a dialect of
Norman language). The economy has gone from depending largely on
agriculture to earning money from the
tourism and finance industries. Due to these upheavals and large immigration, the island has been more or less completely Anglicised.
Politics
The
States of Alderney is the
legislature of the island; it sends two representatives to the
States of Guernsey as well. The origin of the States is unknown, but it has operated from the mediaeval period.
The States of Alderney consists of the President, directly elected every 4 years, and 10 States Members, half elected every 2 years for a 4 year mandate. The President of Alderney is Sir Norman Browse (since 2002). The whole island is a single constituency.
Until the reform of 1948, the States of Alderney consisted of:
- Lieutenant-Governor of Guernsey
- the Judge (appointed by the Crown, equivalent of the Bailiff in Guernsey and Jersey)
- 6 Jurats (appointed by the Crown)
- the officers of the Court of Alderney
- 4 Douzainiers (elected annually by the ratepayers)
- a Douzainier-Delegate (appointed by the Douzaine)
- 3 People's Deputies (elected by the voters for a 3 year mandate; added in 1923)
Law
The Court of Alderney exercises unlimited original jurisdiction in civil matters and limited jurisdiction in criminal matters. The Court sits as a Chairman and not less than three Jurats (out of the six Jurats). Appeals are made to the Royal Court of Guernsey (which also exercises some original jurisdiction in criminal matters in Alderney) and thence to the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council.
Geography
In terms of geography Alderney is similar to the other islands in that it has sheer cliffs broken by stretches of sandy beach and dunes. It has a temperate climate, moderated by the sea, and summers are usually warmer than elsewhere in the British Isles. Trees are rather scarce, as many were cut down in the 17th century to fuel the lighthouses on Alderney and the
Casquets. Those trees that remain include some
cabbage trees (due to the mild climate - often miscalled "palms" but of the lily family.), and there are now some small woods dotted about the island.
Alderney and its surrounding islets feature a rich flora and fauna.
Puffins on
Burhou and gannets on
Les Étacs just off Alderney are a favourite of many visitors to the island. The
Blonde hedgehog is a species native to Alderney. The island has its own breed of cattle, called the
Alderney; the pure breed became extinct in 1944, but hybrids remain elsewhere, though no longer on Alderney itself. In August 2005, the west coast of Alderney and associated islands, including
Burhou and
Ortac, were designated as
Ramsar wetlands of international importance.
The island is surrounded by rocks, which have caused hundreds of wrecks. There are two treacherous tidal streams on either side of the island:
the Swinge between Alderney and Burhou, just outside the harbour, and Le Raz between the island and the Norman mainland.
Culture
Auregnais, the local dialect of
Norman is almost extinct, with only one or two islanders being "
rememberers", and
French is no longer spoken in the island (except by tourists); it ceased to be an
official language in
1966, declining a great deal from neglect, especially in the education sector, and also because most of the population was evacuated in WWII. To this day however, many, if not most of the local placenames are in French or Auregnais. One or two words linger on in the local English, for example
vraic (
seaweed fertiliser), and the pronunciation of certain local names, for example Dupont as 'Dippoh' rather than the French way.
Golf,
Fishing and other water sports are popular, though there are many clubs and associations for sports and other leisure activities (
List of Clubs & Associations
). Due in part to the large numbers of tourists, there are a large number of restaurants and public houses. There is a vibrant and lively nightlife which is enjoyed by many especially in the summer -- such as the Quarry parties.
It is legal to smoke in pubs, shops, restaurants and other indoor public places.
Alderney has a somewhat ageing population, being popular with people wanting somewhere quiet to retire. Being a quiet and secluded island, Alderney has attracted a number of famous residents, including authors
T. H. White (
The Once and Future King) and
Elisabeth Beresford (The Wombles),
cricket commentator
John Arlott, cricketer
Ian Botham, Beatles producer
George Martin, actress
Julie Andrews, and Olympic swimmer
Duncan Goodhew.
Alderney Week
Alderney Week is celebrated from the Saturday before the first Monday of August, during which a number of events take place. Each year a new theme is picked by the organisers, and there's a local competition for a logo/mascot.
*The first Saturday begins with a parade of decorated brollies, bonnets and dogs to the Marais Square, where, traditionally, the firemen squirt their hoses into the air to "test" the brollies. There is a disco on the green, and a Quarry Party starting at 11pm with a 70s and 80s theme. People dress in costume or just in wacky clothes.
*The Sunday is always the day of a traditional Street Market. A mixture of traditional toffee apples and personal junk sales is laid out up and down the main street. Clothes, ice-creams, local sweets and jewellry are all sold from tables in the street, and with dancing by the KFA, the Miss Holiday Princess Competition and music by the Alderney Band, it's always guaranteed to be a great day.
*Cavalcade Day takes place on the Monday, on which residents and organisations construct parade floats based upon a particular theme, before walking them though the high street and onto the green. Judging and prize giving takes place up there, as well as games, stalls and burger vans. Why not sign up for Alderney's Got Talent, or the Alderney X-Factor while you're there? Or have a go on the coconut shy? The Alderney Blowers give a full concert, and there's a Car and Bike show.
*Tuesday is always a mis-match of events. Auditions, Shakespeare in the gardens, and "the blessing of the fishing fleet" are regularly timetabled for Tuesday.
*Wednesday often includes the Daft Raft Race, though it changes days often to get the right tide. Locals and visitors alike build the wackiest crafts they can think up to sail around two buoys in 3 great races... whilst being pelted with flour bombs, water bombs and hoses from the lifeboat. Although the races are friendly, many attempts at sabotage have been made, which range from standing in the way of launch, to drilling holes in the previous-years winners the night before. In the evening is the Extravaganza- a show of hilarious sketches and acts about Alderney, the theme, and inter-island competition.
*The Man-Powered Flight is the main focus of Thursday's events for many. A duck race (that is numbered bath ducks) takes place at the same time as the mad flying attempts. Machines go from the beautifully decorated to the ones that might actually fly... although the furthest flying usually flies no more than a metre or two. In the evening is the Battle Of The Bands, with both local and visiting bands taking part. It is held in the quarry, where people of all ages go to dance, cheer, and sit around the bonfire.
*Friday is given over to the sandcastle competition. The competitors are split into age groups- 0-5, 5-7, 7-10, 10-13, and Adult, and time-limits set for each group. The standard is continuously high (see the Alderney Week webpage gallery for photographs) and it's a fun event for all. The evening is given over to entertainment by the talented. The under-16 talent show (Alderney's Got Talent) is held early on, followed by the Alderney X-Factor at 9pm. The talent show welcomes kids of every age and any talent, from dancing and singing to poetry and karate. The X-Factor prefers singers over 14, and provides fun, family-friendly entertainment.
*The Torchlight Procession, on the Saturday evening of the week, sees a parade of people walking through the town centre, carrying torches towards a large bonfire upon the local green. The evening ends with a fireworks display and an open-air music event held in a now-disused quarry, starting at midnight and finishing at 8:00am the next morning, although it has been known to continue on until gone 10am by some nocturnal people, using the radio for music. Other people make their way to the airport for their flight in the sleeping bags they slept in on the nearest soft floor they could find.
Regular entertainment during Alderney Week includes
The famous Alderney Blowers play every year. The Alderney Blowers are a group of musicians who fly over from England every year to play throughout Alderney week.
The Alderney Island Band, a group of local wind musicians of every age and ability, conducted by Sue Cooper.
The KFA, Alderney's Pomerettes. The girls (and boys) start as Sunbeams aged about 4-7, and slowly work up until the Teen Team, learning dances with ribbons, balls, and pomerettes, and performing them at many events in Alderney Week
Transportation
There are numerous flights each day from Southampton, Bournemouth and Guernsey (with links to many parts of the United Kingdom and Europe). Blue Islands and Aurigny Air Services both serve the island by air with Britten-Norman Trislanders. Blue Islands stopped operating the Alderney - Shoreham (Brighton) route in February due to lack of interest. They have (re)started the Alderney - Jersey direct, with the slogan: Shoreham out, Jersey in.
Boats sail regularly between the island and France, as well as the other Channel Islands. There are also frequent boat trips available.
Due to the island's size, vehicular transport is often unnecessary, although taxis, cars and bicycles are often used. The Alderney Railway is the only railway now remaining in the Channel Islands.
During the summer season, there's an occasional bus service around the island.
Alderney allows people to drive motorbikes and mopeds without helmets and drive cars without seatbelts. Alderney's international vehicle registration code is GBA.
Numismatic history
Banknote of Alderney
Coins of Alderney
Postal Orders of Alderney
Panoramas
Further Information
Get more info on 'Alderney'.
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